SHAMPOO ISLAND AND THE GAY MONK OF MAWLAMYINE

Shampoo Island is a leafy oasis in the middle of Myanmar’s rushing Thanlwin River. Just off the northern tip of Mawlamyine, Gaung Se Kyun (literally “Shampoo Island” in Burmese) is home to several colorful Buddhist shrines, a handful of rather animated dogs and a small community of nuns and monks… one of whom appears to have a tendency to hit on foreign men in the most awkward of manners.

THE LONELY MONK OF MAWLAMYINE

The monk’s reputation preceded him. 

A Trip Advisor review from 2016 described an almost laughably weird encounter with one of the island’s resident monks.

Some of the highlights–

“… he was eagerly waiting by the boat. The tour started right away. At first I thought that monks escort all tourists around… ”

“He’d then get close to me on the pretext of seeing the screen… lean in and put a hand on my crotch as if it was accidental.”

“I did think it was accidental, but after the sixth time, not so much.”

“At one point a woman actually came up to him and asked him where something was. He pretended not to understand her, but I reminded him he’d shown it to me before.”

The story was almost too comical to be true.

A gay monk? On a tiny, obscure island off the coast of Myanmar’s third-largest city? Preying on lone male travelers?

I Immediately placed Shampoo Island on my must-visit list.

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I could hardly contain my laughter while relaying the review and alerting Raphaele and Tomas in advance of their visit to Shampoo Island.

But as the review stated, a couple probably wouldn’t experience any trouble. Single guys, however? They needed to be on the lookout.

I planned my excursion for the following afternoon, equal parts curiosity and apprehension filling my mind.

SHAMPOO ISLAND

Shampoo Island acquired its name due to a connection with the annual royal hair-washing ceremony. Washing one’s hair with Gaung Se Kyun’s spring water brought about good fortune. Supposedly. Servants fetched water from the spring and transported it nearly 435 miles (700km) north to Inwa, the former ancient imperial capital city on the outskirts of Mandalay. There, the Burmese kings would bathe their locks, hopeful for a bountiful and prosperous year ahead.

World War II destroyed most of Gaung Se Kyun, so what you see is relatively new. A large square central stupa is the centerpiece of Shampoo Island’s religious life. Several colorful pagodas dot the island, Hindu and traditional Chinese temples among them. Living quarters for the Buddhist sangha round out the manmade structures. Uncomfortable metal swings hang from the sturdiest trees and well-maintained stone pathways connect the sights.

The island a lovely place, peppered with palm trees and covered in vibrant green vegetation, a lush retreat in skillet hot Mon State.

BEWARE, THE MONK

I saw him coming from my perch atop one of the metal swings. He smiled broadly and looked… well, let’s just say my gaydar was beeping something fierce.

Typical of Burmese monks he was friendly and spoke at least a few words of English. He gave me a friendly nudge, so I slid over and reluctantly allowed him a seat.

Rather quickly the monk produced a small flip book from the folds of his maroon robe. The book was dusty and worn, pictures of the island and a map within its plastic cover. I feigned interest as he pointed out a few of the sights, but I couldn’t take my mind off the Trip Advisor review.

And then it happened.

The monk’s dainty hand rested on my thigh, uncomfortably close to my groin.

I instantly grabbed the hand and placed it back within his personal space.

My heartbeat quickened.

Awkward tension hung in the air as I once again flipped through the second-rate tourist booklet. The barely distinguishable names of the eighteen Ava period kings made my eyes glaze over.

When his hand made a second visit to my left leg I immediately stood up.

I feigned curiosity in the spring and began walking across the courtyard. He followed close behind, but I took an unplanned detour over a small hedge. I made it halfway down the concrete path before peering back over my shoulder.

I never saw him again.

DO IT YOURSELF

Getting To Shampoo Island

Blue and white painted wooden boats depart from beneath the railway bridge near the northern tip of Mawlamyine. The informal jetty is on the eastern side of the bridge. Boats depart during daylight hours, generally 8am to about 430pm.

For information on getting to Mawlamyine, see my post The Slow Train to Mawlamyine

Moto taxi drivers will know the spot, but it helps to have the pronunciation down. It’s “Gaung-say-chun”. Ky = ch in Burmese.

You can also walk to the boat stand. Look for the occasional sign or ask around.

Visitors are required to remove footwear before proceeding around the island. Plan on spending up to ninety minutes on Shampoo Island.

Costs

The round trip cost is generally accepted to be 2,000 kyat (US$1.33) per person. Don’t be surprised if the boatmen request more if you’re the only one around. Settle on a price before departure and pay on the return trip.